Posted by: foodgasmic on: November 26, 2010
M here. It has been a while. Much has changed in the past year. Y has left the City for warmer weather and more interesting endeavors. And I decided to explore the many allures of London town, only to return to a lovely manor akin to an art gallery in the heart of the Upper West Side. It is funny the places that life takes us, but that’s a story for later.
Y finally came back to town this past week for Thanksgiving, my favorite holiday for obvious reasons. We decided to have our reunion over good food (did you expect any less from us?), which Y has been dreadfully deprived from while on the west coast. Apparently food is not as sinfully scrumptious when cooked with restraint and healthy ingredients, who would have thought?
After much deliberation, we decided that Maialino would be the best venue for our reunion. Another Danny Meyer creation heralded one of the best new restaurants from the year, how can we resist? Plus, I had already enjoyed a brunch there and it was quite delightful so how can we go wrong? Here’s what we thought.
Food (Menu): Stellar
With a name like Maialino or “Little Pig,” Y and I decided to indulge in a meal centered around suckling pig. It was delicious. Y ordered the Malfatti al Maialino, suckling pig ragu and arugula paired with hand-torn malfatti pasta. We were intrigued by simplicity of this tasty dish and element of sustainability associated with its creation (see recipe). I opted for the Zampa di Maialino, suckling pig’s foot with beans and arugula. I loved the suckling pig, the meat was perfectly seasoned and tender, encased in crispy skin. The beans and arugula were a bit confusing. The favor was good, but it was cold, which was odd.
We also got the Frittura Vegetale for an appetizer, which was rather uninspiring. The glorified tempura vegetables were well seasoned and enjoyable. But honestly, there is only so much one can do with tempura vegetables. Same could be said about the Gianduja Budino, chocolate and hazelnut bread pudding. Served warmed, it was delightful, but not awe-inspiring.
One of the best elements of dinner in my opinion was the wine. Then again, I just may be a lush. I paired my pork with Ceuso’s Fastaia, a fruity and aromatic Sicilian red blend, and Y chose Abbazia di Novacella’s Kerner, an enticing white from the Isarco Valley similar to a Riesling.
Service: Good
I am a bit torn here. While the our waitress was friendly and enthusiastic, and very generous with wine samples, I feel there were opportunities where she could have been more attentive. It took quite a while for her to give us our menus though as Y noted (perhaps appease me), New Yorkers have far higher expectations when it comes to service. That being said, our waitress this time around was far, far superior than the one at brunch a few weeks back.
Ambiance: Stellar
Walking into Maialino for the first time took me back to my wide-eyed wandering days (cue Elton John) while studying abroad in Italy. Taking in the dark rustic wood and blue checkered table clothes, it was as if I was in Rome again. Somehow Meyer managed to capture the warm and friendly trattoria feel in Gramercy Park. Even the wait staff were dressed appropriately for the part.
Quirk: Good
The name Maialino, a play on Meyerlino or “Little Meyer,” a nickname Meyer acquired while working for his dad as a tour guide in Italy is quite endearing.
Location: 2 Lexington Avenue near 21st St, Gramercy
Price: appetizer + 2 entrees + 2 glasses of wine + dessert = $125
Verdict: Stellar
Another success for the Danny Meyer empire.